Biu to Lagos: An adventurous journey to honour folklore patron, Bukar Usman
By Bala Ibrahim Mohammed
THIS is my account and experience about a journey I undertook to attend the investiture of Dr. Bukar Usman as an Honorary Fellow awarded to him by the Nigerian Academy of Letters (NAL) at the University of Lagos on August 8th, 2024. At 5:40am, my alarm woke me up, coinciding with the early morning prayer call from the mosque. I woke up from bed, performed my ablution, and headed to the mosque to observe the two Raka’at morning prayer. Afterwards, I returned home, took a bath, got ready, and set off for my journey. My family bid me farewell as I departed.
My friend, Engineer Nuraini, whom I had notified earlier to assist and drop me off at the motor park, was ready and waiting. I placed my bag in the car, and we drove straight to the motor park, approximately 3 kilometers from our house. I called my cousin, Madina Mamman, whom I was travelling with, to hurry up so we could catch the first bus, commonly referred to as “Turn one” by the people at the motor park. Typically, after the first bus departs, the second bus struggles to fill up.
We departed Biu Motor Park at 8:15am to begin our journey, after spending about two hours waiting at the park. Before leaving, I noticed that the front rear wheel was making an unusual sound, which I brought to the driver’s attention. He assured me that there was no problem, although he mentioned that the original bus had an accident and was beyond repair. The engine had been removed and placed in another body, which was the one we were traveling in.
Our journey progressed smoothly until we got to Gombe, where the driver needed to refuel. We stopped at a filling station in Tumfure, a busy commercial area along the NNPC depot. Some passengers disembarked to stretch their legs, and once the fueling was complete, the driver honked the horn to signal that we were ready to continue. We all returned to the bus and set off again, cruising at a speed of 100 km/h, as indicated on the speedometer. However, the road was in poor condition, with potholes that forced the driver to slow down to avoid accident.
Our next stop was Alkaleri, a town 70 km from Gombe, where most motorists traveling on the Bauchi-Gombe Road stop to eat, refuel, pray, and stretch their legs. The town has numerous food vendors, restaurants, suya spots, and fruit sellers, as well as filling stations. We spent about thirty minutes there before the driver called us to board the bus again. Since there was no conductor, the driver closed the door himself once we were all seated.
President of Nigerian Academy of Letters (NAL), Prof. Sola Akinrinade investing Dr. Bukar Usman with Honorary Fellow of Nigerian Academy of Letters (Hon. FNAL) while Vice President of NAL, Prof. Andrew Haruna looks on
After passing through Gombe, we headed towards Bauchi, but the roads were in terrible condition, forcing our driver to slow down. We soon noticed that the gear clutch was not functioning properly, making it difficult to change gears. The driver had to turn off the engine, shift the gear manually, and kick-start the bus to get us moving again. This significantly delayed our journey, which normally takes less than thirty minutes but it took us over an hour to complete. Finally, we arrived Bauchi and stopped beside the Federal Government Girl’s College Bauchi gate, where the mechanics specializing in Ford Galaxy buses are based.
The mechanic arrived and confirmed that there were air leakages in the clutch pot, which needed to be bled and tightened, so we could continue our journey. After bleeding the air, the driver was asked to pump the clutch, but the issue persisted, and the gear wouldn’t move in the desired direction. We requested that the mechanic contact his master to come and assess the clutch problem and provide proper advice, considering our long journey from Bauchi to Abuja.
Upon the master’s arrival, he inspected the clutch and discovered that the fault wasn’t just air leakage but also a malfunctioning release bearing, which prevented the gear from moving correctly. The release bearing needed replacement, requiring the gearbox to be separated from the engine, a process that would take at least two and a half hours, as estimated by the master.
I checked the time and saw it was 2:15pm; if completed as scheduled, the repairs would finish around 4:30pm. We decided to proceed with the repairs, as we intended to continue our journey throughout the night to reach Abuja. All the male passengers assisted the mechanics to ensure the bus was fixed within the time frame. Teamwork played a vital role, and we completed the repairs as agreed. We took a break to pray Zuhr and Asr, and by 4:25pm, the work on the bus was finished, and we were ready to continue our journey.
During the repairs, dark clouds gathered, indicating an impending heavy rainstorm, which meant we would be traveling in the rain. We departed Bauchi at 4:35pm, heading towards Jos, the Plateau State capital, 120 km away. As we approached Buzaye, a village 21 km from Bauchi, the driver maintained a speed of 100 km/h. Suddenly, a dog appeared on the road, but the driver, Adamu, didn’t seem to notice it. I chose not to distract him, but he eventually saw the dog and decided to hit it to avoid a fatal accident. The dog was struck by the front bumper grill and died instantly. However, the collision damaged the bus’s radiator and front bumper, causing all the water in the radiator to leak out.
The leaking radiator needed to be repaired before we could continue our journey. Although it was raining and already night had fallen, around 7:00pm, we were fortunate to have a driver whose house was near where our bus stopped. He kindly assisted us in temporarily fixing the radiator so we could continue our journey and have it properly replaced or repaired at our destination. Before we could fix the radiator and resume our journey, it was 9:00pm when we left Buzaye village, heading towards Jos.
During our journey, we noticed that the engine temperature was rising, so we stopped to investigate the problem. After stopping, we discovered that the radiator was leaking again, so we refilled it with water and continued our journey, as time was of the essence. The journey was arduous, and we had to stop at intervals to check for leakages and refill the radiator before proceeding. Unfortunately, there were no major towns nearby to provide a lasting solution to the radiator issue.
We arrived at Magama Gumau, a town where motorists divert to Kaduna from Bauchi without passing through Jos. There, we searched for a radiator sealant to block small leakages. We found a special powder in a tube that, when poured into the radiator, would seal the holes. Although the rain was heavy, we managed to apply the sealant, enabling us to continue our journey. We moved slowly, without much speed, to ensure we reached Jos. We arrived around 11:00pm, only to find that a curfew had been imposed earlier that afternoon.
Due to the curfew, the driver tried his best by speaking with security agencies and explaining our situation. They assisted us in passing through, as we were on transit. We continued our journey from Jos to Abuja, passing through Forest and Akwanga. The journey continued in the rain, which became heavier than before than when we got to Jos. The bus’s headlights could not provide clear visibility, so we advised the driver to drive slowly. Other cars and trucks were also moving slowly due to the terrible road conditions and potholes. A J5 bus was ahead of us, so we told the driver to follow it, as its headlights offered better visibility.
As we approached the last military checkpoint before Forest, a junction for motorists heading to Gidan Waya (Kaduna State) and Akwanga (Nasarawa State), we noticed it also served as a small market where food, drinks, and fruits were sold to motorists on transit. The military personnel checking motorists usually called the drivers one by one, as there was only a single lane used by both incoming and outgoing motorists. When the J5 bus was called by the military personnel using a torchlight, our driver maneuvered to the side of the J5 bus but unknowingly climbed on stone barricades, causing damage that led to the breaking of the bus’s bottom plate and the spilling of all the engine oil.
After passing the military checkpoint, the accident occurred around 2:00am, during heavy rainfall. We advised the driver to place tree branches and leaves on the road to signal to oncoming motorists that the bus was faulty to avoid an accident. He followed our advice and then fell asleep inside the bus. We began thinking of a way out, considering the danger of the road at that time of night. I prayed for a solution and asked my cousin, Madina, to join me in finding another car or truck to Akwanga or Abuja, at least to leave the danger zone and continue our journey in the morning. She agreed, but expressed concern about our luggage. I assured her we would retrieve them from the back of the bus.
I ventured out into the heavy rainfall and stood by the bus on the main road, raising my hand to signal passing motorists for assistance. Although several vehicles passed without stopping due to the dangerous terrain, a Hummer bus eventually slowed down and asked where we were headed. I replied, ‘Abuja,’ and the driver asked how many of us there were. I said two, and he stopped. I asked Madina to quickly board the bus while I retrieved our luggage from the booth. Once we had our luggage, we were asked to sit in front of the bus with three others, and the driver took off.
After the driver started the journey, we realized that there were no passengers in the bus, only cows arranged inside from Gombe to Abuja. When I asked, the driver explained that it took several days to get a turn at the motor park, but by visiting village cow markets, he could get loads or animals to transport to different destinations after the market closed. The driver was cautious, as he drove through the heavy rainfall until wgot to Keffi, where he stopped to see someone. I had earlier informed him that we had booked bus tickets from Abuja to Lagos for a 6:00am departure time.
After meeting his friend, we continued our journey, and arrived at Mararraba motor park by 6:10am. The bus we booked had already been boarded by all passengers, as boarding started at 5:30am and departure was scheduled for 6:00am. The bus company had called us several times to inquire about our whereabouts, but I told them we were approaching Utako, where their motor park was located. We took a taxi to speed up and meet the scheduled time, as we were already running late. A 30-minute grace period was added, allowing us to catch up. We arrived at Utako by 6:40am, and all passengers were alreadt seated, waiting for only the two of us. We boarded the bus, and the driver started the journey from Abuja to Lagos.
As we settled in, I apologized to the other passengers for keeping them waiting. We slept off due to lack of sleep since the previous day. At Lokoja, we stopped to refuel and stretch our legs. All passengers disembarked to eat, ease themselves, and pray. We spent about an hour there before continuing our journey. At Owo, the driver stopped again to refuel for the trip to Lagos. Some passengers informed the driver that they would be dropping off at Ibadan, the Oyo State capital. As we got to Ibadan, about four passengers disembarked at different locations. It was already night, so we proceeded straight to Lagos from Ibadan. Upon arriving in Lagos, Jibowu was the final bus stop, where everyone disembarked.
The hotel reservation made for us was conveniently located near the Jibowu bus stop. We walked to the hotel, entered, and inquired about our reservations at the reception desk. We were provided with our room card keys, and the waiters escorted us to our rooms, where we settled in, took baths, and prayed before heading to the restaurant for dinner. At the restaurant, we met other invitees of Dr. Bukar Usman, including Bashir Yahuza Malumfashi, a writer for Daily Trust newspaper, Deborah C. Uzoma, Hassan A. Kangiwa, Faizah Muhammad Sajo, and several others whose names I couldn’t recall. We all came from various destinations across the country and enjoyed a wonderful dinner and conversation until around 11:00pm, when we retired to our rooms to rest for the next day’s events.
I woke up early, took a bath, and dressed before heading to the restaurant, where I met other invitees having breakfast. I placed my order, which arrived promptly, and then joined the others to board the bus waiting to take us to the venue at 8:15am. We arrived at the University of Lagos venue for the event, where the award recipients were registering at the entrance of the J.F. Ade. Ajayi Auditorium. The ushers guided us to the auditorium, where we took our seats. Upon entering, we met Dr. Usman chatting with Professor Asabe Kabir Usman (also a recipient of the award) and her husband. We exchanged greetings, and Dr. Usman warmly welcomed us to witness his investiture as an Honorary Fellow by the Nigerian Academy of Letters.
The event began at 10:00am with the conferment of Regular Fellowship on Professor Asabe Kabir Usman, who was scheduled to receive the award in 2023 but couldn’t attend due to health issues. The Nigerian Academy of Letters does not confer awards in absentia, so the event started with her conferment. Ten professors were conferred with Regular Fellowships for 2024, three professors received Overseas Fellowships, and the NAL Award of Excellence in Humanistic Practice was awarded to Chief Mrs. Nike Monica Okundayo, Zeb Ejiro, and Emem Misodi Isong. The only two doctors among the professors, Dr. Bukar Usman and Dr. Wale Okediran, were conferred with Honorary Fellowships by the President of NAL Professor Sola Akinrinade. After the investiture, Dr. Usman delivered a speech on behalf of the Honorary Fellows.
At the conclusion of the event, the President of NAL requested that all recipients and invited guests exit the auditorium for a group photo. The exit was done in an orderly manner, with the high table leading the way, followed by fellows and then invitees. Many pictures were taken with well-wishers, families, and friends of Dr. Usman. We briefly met Henry Akubuiro, who was introduced to us by Dr. Usman, although I had read most of his book reviews on Dr. Usman’s write-ups. Akubuiro, a journalist with The Sun newspaper, didn’t stay long and left shortly after. After all the pictures were taken, Dr. Usman granted an interview to a reporter named Kabir Yayo Ali from Daily Trust newspaper, and we all departed back to the hotel.
Bala Ibrahim Mohammed (left); newly invested with Hon. FNAL, Dr. Bukar Usman and Madina Mamman after the investiture at University of Lagos, Lagos
When we got there, the receptionist asked us to proceed to the restaurant for lunch. We all went straight to the restaurant, placed our orders, and chatted among ourselves while waiting for our food. After lunch, we continued chatting until everyone decided to take a break and rest. We all returned to our rooms to relax. In the evening, we gathered again at the restaurant for dinner, where five of us – Bashir Yahuza Malumfashi, Hassan A. Kangiwa, Madina Mamman, Faizah Muhammad Sajo, and myself – continued chatting until around 10:00pm, when we exchanged contact information, knowing we would be departing for our various destinations the next morning.
We were ready by 5:00am the next day and met Madina at the reception, where we handed over our room card keys and informed the receptionist that we were checking out. Our return tickets to Abuja were scheduled for 5:30am, so we quickly made our way to the Jibowu bus stop, where our bus would depart Lagos. Upon arriving at Jibowu, we boarded our bus, and the journey to Abuja began. The journey was smooth, with stopovers at various points where passengers could eat, drink, pray, and use the restrooms while the driver refueled the bus. The bus arrived Abuja around 8:00pm, and we dropped off at Wuse, where Madina took a taxi to Kubwa, while I joined a taxi heading to Jabi. On getting to Jabi, I called Madina to confirm if she had arrived safely in Kubwa, and she confirmed that she was home.
I checked into a hotel in Jabi, freshened up, and rested until the next morning. I then called Madina to suggest that we take a day’s rest in Abuja before continuing our journey to Biu on Sunday, and she agreed. I went back to sleep until afternoon. When I woke up, took a bath, and visited my friends. We spent time together until around 9:00pm, when they dropped me off at the hotel and left. I slept early to get enough rest for the journey ahead.
The next morning, I woke up at 5:00am, got ready, and confirmed with my friend’s driver, who would take me to the Mararraba Motor Park, that I was ready. I checked out of the hotel, met my friend’s driver, and we drove straight to the motor park. Madina was already there, but the first bus was fully booked. We paid for two seats on the second bus, which was loading passengers. By the time it was full, it was already after 9:00am. We loaded our luggage, boarded the bus, and left the motor park by 10:00am.
We stopped in Bauchi to refuel and took a break to eat and pray. The journey continued until we arrived Gombe around 7:00pm, where some passengers disembarked. We arrived Biu at 11:00pm. The military personnel had closed the checkpoints, but our driver and other drivers persuaded them to let us pass. We entered the town, and the bus dropped us off at the motor park junction, where we offloaded our luggage. My friend picked me up, and we went with Madina to her house, where we dropped her.
In conclusion, this journey was memorable, as I met various personalities, some of whom I had only read about. I was pleased to have traveled such a long distance by road and attended my Uncle Dr. Bukar Usman’s investiture as an Honorary Fellow of the Nigerian Academy of Letters. I thank my uncle, his wife, Mrs. Dupe Usman, and their children, Hadizat Omolola Usman and Zara Oreoluwa Usman, for making this trip possible. I also extend my gratitude to Bashir Yahuza Malumfashi, Hassan A. Kangiwa, Deborah C. Uzoma, Faizah Muhammad Sajo, and all other well-wishers who graced the occasion. Lastly, I appreciate my cousin sister Madina Mamman, who traveled with me from Biu to Lagos and back. We look forward to more awards for our uncle and father, Dr. Bukar Usman, for his selfless service to humanity.
* Mohammed, a former banker, contributed this piece from Biu, Borno State